01/18/13 8:57am
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Our Brooklyn Bike Diary begins where Java Street meets the East River

There is nothing quite like seeing New York City by bike. While speeding cars, potholes, and texting pedestrians seem to provide an insurmountable obstacle to a two-wheel world, it remains one of the most exhilarating ways to explore the city. As David Byrne explains in his book Bicycle Diaries, ” This point of view [from a bike]- faster than a walk, slower than a train, often slightly higher than a person- became my panoramic window on much of the world over the last thirty years- and it still is. It’s a big window and it looks out on a mainly urban landscape.” This is our interpretation of a Brooklyn Bike Diary.

In this photoshoot we sought to capture some of the joie de vivre of exploring Brooklyn by bike, with a touch of vintage nostalgia. We journey from the East River in Greenpoint, down Franklin Avenue, and south to Grand Army Plaza. While cycling might not be the most orthodox of transports, it is certainly the most stylish.

For more photos and musings, visit us at Neon Mamacita

Photographed by Nick Shepard
Styled by Annie Shepard and David Ban
Modeled by David Ban

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An Empire State of Mind

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Brief pause on Franklin Avenue

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Hey guys, look, it’s the Bailey Fountain!

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The Solider’s and Sailor’s Arch at Grand Army Plaza

11/01/12 2:30pm

The architectural boat tour sponsored by the American Institute of Architects (AIA) New York chapter is arguably one of the most informative and enjoyable tours in New York City. The Classic Harbor Line is docked at Pier 62 in Chelsea and the boat is the picture of elegance. The ship’s deck is made of fine teak and the interiors are plush and comfortable. Architect Anthony Platt, who seemed no stranger to the microphone, gave the tour. He rattled off dates, names and architectural styles with the same ease as reciting the alphabet. His knowledge seemed to know no bounds and it was actually difficult to keep up with all the information, though still enjoyable nonetheless. As we pulled out of Pier 62, he told us that Chelsea Piers is over one hundred years old and began as a luxury liner pier. The Titanic was scheduled to dock there, but the survivor ship, The Carpathia, took its place. After the height of luxury liners came to an end, the piers were turned over for shipping and fell into disuse in the 1970s. In the 1990s, the piers were rehabilitated for adaptive reuse as seen today as the mega-sports complex, Chelsea Piers.

As we pulled out of the boat slip and into the Hudson River, the West Side of Chelsea came into full view. Recently Chelsea has seen a surge of starchitecture and the viewpoint from the water was a different way to see how it all comes together against the skyline. Our tour guide started out by pointing towards the wonderful Jean Nouvel residential tower, noting the 1,700 different panels all situated in different directions to give the illusion of different shades of blue. We were then pointed towards the iceberg-esque Frank Gehry building, home to the IAC. The glass was warped into shape and then sprayed down with silicone to give it its ghostly appearance.

As we floated down the river, Mr. Platt was quick to point out architecturally significant buildings both old and new. We moved from recent history to older with the Westbeth Artist Community, a building whose beginnings started as the Bell Laboratories and is one of the first examples of adaptive reuse in the city. It opened in the late 1960s as artist live-work studios for 384 individuals. The project was the first important public commission for Richard Meier. In 2011, the building was marked as a New York City Landmark.

Naturally, the new World Trade Center was highlighted on this tour. The mega architecture firm S.O.M. is in charge of the design, following Daniel Libeskind’s master plan. Four World Trade Center is designed by Fuki Mahki and will prove to be another interesting addition to the lower Manhattan skyline. The new Goldman Sachs tower was pointed out on both the Manhattan side and the New Jersey side. I.M. Pei’s firm designed the Manhattan tower and the New Jersey office is the tallest building in the state, though few from Goldman Sachs actually use those offices.

We moved towards the tip of the island towards Battery Park City, a former landfill. Work began on this section of Manhattan around the same time as the original World Trade Center. New York State created the public-private Battery Park City Authority to build the development. One notable structure is the ziggurat-like Jewish Heritage Museum. This building surely is unique in style among the hundreds of New York City structures and serves as a great homage to Jewish people and their heritage.  Moving forward, we rounded the island and headed up the East River towards the Harlem River. Obvious important structures were pointed out like Frank Gehry’s residential tower, “New York by Gehry” and the Brooklyn Bridge.

The newest addition on this tour perhaps was the new FDR Four Freedoms Park at Roosevelt Island. The tip of the small island has been made captivating and serves as a nice, fresh juxtaposition from the ruins of the old small pox hospital. New Yorkers have another reason to visit the East River island.

Moving towards High Bridge Park we were informed of Bette Midler’s involvement through the New York Restoration Project in cleaning up and restoring this park perched on a cliff. For a moment it feels as if you are way up the Hudson River and not Manhattan, especially when you come upon the boathouse designed by Robert A. M. Stern. Its bright colors are a welcome respite from the relentless glass and steel seen earlier.

As we trolled through the no wake zone of the Harlem River, Mr. Platt pointed towards Columbia University’s playing fields and a cliff that children are wont to jump off of in the warm summer months. The beautiful fall foliage helped to transport us out of Manhattan once again. We passed the Cloisters and were reminded of just how much the Rockefellers contributed to Manhattan’s glory both now and in time past.

Passing midtown Manhattan, we saw the new development in the beautiful starchitecture towers of Sir Norman Foster, Robert A. M. Stern, Renzo Piano and other well-known mega firms. The recession seems to be over in Manhattan by evidence of the countless cranes and construction sites. The new development initiated by Donald Trump has done much to change the long empty portion of the East Side waterfront. As we pulled back into the slip at Pier 62, I was reminded that it was a Friday and I wasn’t on vacation. The 2 hour 45 minute trip was over and I needed to get back to my workday, sadly. All in all, this is a tour that I would highly recommend to both tourists and New York residents alike. It isn’t for the faint of heart though. Be ready to learn more in a short period about architecture then you ever thought possible. It just may send the architecture novice’s head reeling but there’s one free drink if this may cause some anxiety.

Find out more about the AIA New York Chapter and the Center for Architecture.  

08/24/12 10:51am

On a quintessential New York evening on the East River, timed with the landing of President Obama’s helicopters at the Downtown Manhattan Heliport, I joined openhousenewyork on their Other Islands Boat Tour. Led by Stuart Miller and Sharon Seitz, authors of the book The Other Islands of New York, the event aboard the packed yacht, the Zephyr, was a cocktail party blended with fun New York facts told by the dynamic hosts.

According to Miller, the islands reflect the story of the city as its priorities have shifted over time. Some were originally purposed as military protection from the British during the War of 1812, named later for the families that owned them, and transformed over time into places of leisure, of isolation, of residence, and often of heterotopia.

First up was the 1/2 acre man-man island U Thant Island, situated halfway between the United Nations building and Long Island City, named in honor of the former UN Secretary General from Burma. The island was created from the materials excavated by William Steinway in his attempt to built underwater tunnels in the East River between Manhattan and his company town in Astoria, Steinway Village.  Steinway died before completion of the tunnels, which were finished by August Belmont. Today the tunnels are still used by the 7 line train.

U Thant Island

Not mentioned was the little outcrop just south of Roosevelt Island, where occasionally “Lou” the seal mans his perch, observing the construction at FDR Four Freedoms Park.

As Roosevelt Island changed hands from Dutch to English to American, it subsequently underwent the necessary nomenclature changes””from Manning’s Island to Blackwell’s Island to Welfare Island. The latter name hints at the island’s functional role in New York City’s history””as a location for prisons, a lunatic asylum, and a smallpox hospital.

The new FDR Four Freedoms Park will open in October, must adjacent to the abandoned James Renwick designed Smallpox Hospital

The lighthouse at the northern tip of Roosevelt Island was also designed by James Renwick

Next was Mill Rock, originally two islands called Great Mill Rock and Little Mill Rock. The area was known as Hell’s Gate for the havoc it wreaked on ships, and the islands were connected in 1885 through a massive detonation by the Army Corps of Engineers that was felt all the way in Princeton, New Jersey.

Mill Rock

Randalls Island and Ward Island were also separate islands, connected via landfill by Robert Moses. As a child, I remember telling my father of the mysterious bridge which was sometimes elevated and sometimes not. It was just the 103rd Street Footbridge, which can be lifted in the center to allow ships to pass. Randalls Island is now home to Icahn Stadium and many sports venues.

Most curious to me were the abandoned North and South Brother Islands. Luckily, I was standing next to photographer Christopher Payne, author of Asylum: Inside the Closed World of State Mental Hospitals and New York’s Forgotten Substations: The Power Behind the Subway, and historic preservationist Randall Mason, who are jointly working on a book about North Brother Island. It was the site of the General Slocum steamship tragedy where over 1300 people perished, mostly immigrants. The island was also home to Typhoid Mary, where she was quarantined for the last two decades of her life.

According to Payne, there are no current plans for North Brother Island and it functions as a wildlife sanctuary.  The structures still remain, albeit in a state of decline, including a coal and boiler plant, and nurses quarters.

Southern view of North Brother ISland

Remnants of a dock at North Brother Island

The final island on the tour was Rikers Island. I’ve had the opportunity to enter the prison facility several times while working on a legal workshop for the incarcerated juveniles as part of the Rikers Island Project. It was one of the most incredible experiences I’ve had in New York City and I hope more readers will get involved.

Rikers Island

Don’t miss openhousenewyork weekend  this October, where you will gain access to many of the places you’ve previously read and seen on Untapped New York.

Get in touch with the author @untappedmich. Find out more about openhousenewyork.  

07/18/12 10:36am

Welcome back to Part II of Benjamin Waldman’s walk around the island of Manhattan. Yesterday we explored the Waterfront Greenway along the  Hudson River. Today,  the Greenway moves inland until it meets the East River. Don’t forget to also check out  Phillip Lopate’s wonderful book,  Waterfront: A Walk Around Manhattan.

Part II: The Harlem and East Rivers

 1. Dyckman Street to the East River

Just north of the Cloisters, the Greenway leaves the waterfront via stairs (top left photo) and proceeds under a bridge (top right photo). The path follows Riverside Drive to Broadway where it switches to Dyckman Street. This stretch of the Greenway, if it can be called that, is a good place to stock up on supplies before heading back to the river. The waterfront is almost in reach after passing under the elevated subway tracks. (more…)