This is a round-up of our favorite links this week curated by the Untapped Cities’ staff includes the largest LED structure in the world, mimes in Paris nightlife and 22 historic photos of Domino when it was still a sugar factory.
The above image is probably not what the average traveler to Malaysia anticipates. While it is known as a moderate Muslim nation, Malaysia is still a place where the less conservative among us should err on the side of caution. Sex scenes in movies are heavily censored, risque performers like Lady Gaga are banned from our stages and yes, homosexuality can earn you a hefty fine or imprisonment. This is why I assured a gay friend who was visiting that there were “no gay bars in KL”. I still cringe at the memory.
Fortunately, Lorenzo had done his research. He insisted on dragging me to Changkat, Kuala Lumpur’s bustling neon-lit nightlife hub.
Streets of Changkat
A Less Packed Bar
A Cop Pauses Amidst Traffic
This had not always been the case. While Changkat is located in the lively Bukit Bintang area near the city center, it had been little more than a dark quiet street while I was growing up. So one can imagine my shock when I discovered it was now a garishly lit thoroughfare crawling with backpackers staying at the plethora of cheap inns nearby. Far more crowded and rowdier than most relatively laid-back nightlife scenes in KL, Changkat made me feel, for lack of a better term, foreign. Too disoriented to do much more than gape, I allowed my tourist friend to lead me through the strange warrens of my own hometown.
Our first stop was the oldest and most well-established gay bar in KL, Blue Boy. However, its location in a seedy, unlit alleyway off Jalan Tun Ismail made it feel rather more clandestine than I’d expected. When we finally entered, I felt no less out of my element. The atmosphere was illumined entirely in indigo light, which made the place feel mysterious and underwater. In the oceanic gloom, I couldn’t make out much beyond the gyrating silhouettes of local rent boys and the dull gleam against the muscles of their Caucasian partners. I could, however, tell that they were observing me in turn, their stares ranging from neutral to borderline hostile. As the only female patron in sight, I was seen as a gawker, an interloper. I had thought to take some pictures, but instead huddled miserably over my beer for the remainder of our time there.
However, Frangipani was a different beast altogether. As both an acclaimed restaurant and the hottest nightlife venue in the city, the club’s motto is “Come one, come all!” The facade alone was designed to impress.
Frisky Friday at Frangipani
Right by the doorway, the sign floated serenely over a flooded semi-courtyard, in the midst of which blossomed an actual frangipani tree.
The club upstairs lived up to the promise of the entrance, with a plush interior with comfy sofas, iridescent friezes and sparkling disco lights.
The Dark Side of the Adults Only Sign
As it was gay night, I was still the only woman, but no one seemed bothered by me. Many men were cheerfully making out in plain sight right next to the bathrooms, unperturbed by my curiosity. In fact, we were approached by several clubbers, some of whom wanted to show off stylish duds and others who were just inquisitive about us as we were about them.
I’m quite glad to be proved wrong for once. On my night at the not-so-secret gay bars of KL, I discovered that my country has its own unexpected wild side. However, it was not always the lighthearted affair it generally is in Western climes. As the tension at Blue Boy showed, homosexuality is still a touchy enough subject that my mere presence was enough to make them feel a spectacle. At least Frangipani made it clear that there were still enough people who are perfectly happy to be themselves, whatever cultural stigmas might dictate.
Essential to survival in New York City is finding places where you can carve out your own space to momentarily escape the ever bustling city. The bars below not only represent well executed speakeasy experiences, clandestine entrances, and purveyors of well—crafted cocktails, but places that provide great evening refuges.
Ostensibly, the purpose of my research was to seek out hidden bars and speakeasies in New York City; however this article lent itself to a more expansive result. The city I had grown familiar with through work, wandering around my neighborhood and showing visitors around, revealed a whole other side I could not have expected.
124 Old Rabbit Club
Take a page out of Alice in Wonderland and follow the rabbit down the hole into this “craft beer bar.” The yellow rabbit on the exterior of the building marks the spot and guides you into the dimly lit establishment. This bar is a great choice for the beer connoisseur as it features an extensive list of domestic and imported beers. The ’60s English rock music that plays lightly from the speakers helps to create a casual, indie, and comfortable vibe. Recommendation is to go on a week night and early since this watering hole only sits about 20 people.
124 MacDougal Street between Bleecker Street and West 3rd Street (more…)
Boston is best known for sports colonial history, and a laidback vibe – but spend some time here, and it become clear that this is also a city that loves fine art, green spaces, and neighborliness. But even though Boston is known as a beautiful city, it is sadly a place where you can forget you’re on the water. If you don’t happen to be seeking out Boston Harbor, you’d be lucky to even glimpse the waterfront from most parts of downtown. But Mayor Mumbles, our reigning boy wonder (19 years as mayor and counting-and actually named Tom Menino), has taken it upon himself to change this, and it’s working. The waterfront is attached to the rest of Boston with a few short, pedestrian-friendly bridges, and yet you’d be forgiven for thinking it was miles out of the way.
Previously, the strip down by the World Trade Center or the Convention Center was, well”¦ dead. But with the birth of the Silver Line in 2002, extending public transit across the bridges (and confusing the hell out of everyone in the process-is it a bus? A train? It has its own lanes and runs underground! But it’s so clearly a bus!), this area has had a chance to grow into its own.
Now, just imagine diving from the height of that roof…
The Institute of Contemporary Art moved to Fan Pier on the waterfront at the end of 2006, and it was one of the biggest indicators that this neighborhood was on the rise. The ICA has brought in a rich program of both visual artists and performers. It has hosted everything from outdoor concerts on their dock to a diving competition in their watery front yard, and is currently hosting Os Gemeos, a Brazilian street art duo, in their first U.S. showing. More proof that the ICA is bringing a fun art culture to Boston? Os Gemeos has been putting murals up all over town, from painting an alleged Occupier on the Kennedy Greenway to a self-portrait on the side of the new Revere Hotel.
The waterfront is also a long-time artists’ neighborhood for other reasons. The old warehouses that populate this neighborhood-mainly holdovers from the days of the ship-based wool trade-have been largely turned into artists’ lofts and studios. A lively culture has surrounded the art walks and open studio events hosted in the neighborhood, and for artists and art-lovers the waterfront (and its neighboring micro-community of Fort Point) is the place to be seen.
Like the rest of America, Boston has seen food culture boom in the last fifteen or so years. While a visitor looking for classic New England fare will be spoiled for choice anywhere in the city, there are new restaurants popping up all the time, and the waterfront district has been the locus for larger spaces and vintage architecture, lending the scene down here a character of its own.
In 2011, Legal Seafoods-a Boston institution for fresh seafood-opened Legal’s Harborside, a multistory behemoth of a restaurant, right on the water near the World Trade Center. Near it is Del Frisco’s, home of the 32-ounce Wagyu steak (and Patriots players hungry enough for it), and a host of lounge spaces and eateries. There are also the old standby joints, like the mom-and-pop J. Pace and Sons, and plenty of booze at the Whiskey Priest, with a gorgeous patio hovering on stilts above the water.
Walk back a few blocks into Fort Point, and you’ll see the handiwork of Barbara Lynch, who has no fewer than three eateries on one block of Congress Street, all of them exuding style and providing amazing food-from the small plates and craft cocktails at Drink (where there’s no menu, just REALLY knowledgeable bartenders), to the glossy sheen of Sportello and the fine dining of Menton, Lynch has put her seal of approval on the district.
And after all that, if you still want chowda, head to the Barking Crab, the little run-down clam shack on Northern Avenue that is staunchly refusing to become anything classier than fried food and loud music.
Okay, it has a silly acronym-but the Boston Redevelopment Authority has been pouring its efforts into this neighborhood for years now, and though I am usually skeptical of large-scale development efforts (a post for another time”¦), I have to give credit to everyone at the BRA.
As early as 1999, they had targeted this area for some lovin’. Noting that it lacked public transit connections to the rest of the city, and was one of the last remaining spots with undeveloped waterfront real estate, the BRA set about turning all of this underused space into a usable public space. At this moment, there are still too many parking lots and too few green spaces, but there are at least five more years of intense development efforts ahead.
Businesses new and old are coming to the area, with the opening of a new multistory Asian fusion lounge called Empire, and the re-siting of Louis Boston, a luxury retailer, from over in the shopping mecca of Newbury Street in Back Bay. And there have been plenty of government-driven incentives for entrepreneurs to look here, in the form of tax relief and infrastructure financing.
And a central tenet of the redevelopment project has been to bring jobs into this area, which is especially important as it is closely connected with some of Boston’s less-affluent areas (yes, Ben Affleck, SOUTHIE!). The next step is to encourage people to move here, which is no easy task as the area still lacks basic amenities like pharmacies, supermarkets, or banks. But don’t worry, Mumbles is on the case, making sure that the area is rezoned for mixed commercial and residential use, in keeping with New England’s very neighborhood-friendly culture.
The proof is in the now-lively community spirit in this end of the city. In August, Fan Pier hosted Boston’s first ever Dîner en Blanc, which yours truly attended with Untapped arts editor. There have been wine tastings at the Seaport Hotel, diving competitions off the front of the ICA, and a revived concert schedule at the Bank of America Pavilion. Keeping green space, walkability, and independent business owners at the forefront of the waterfront development has all of us Bostonians hopeful that this district can reconnect us with the water and spur a new neighborhood of fun, artistic hangouts.